Fashion Horror Show

Fashion’s mystery man did well for his 20^th anniversary collection by making his models just as anonymous as himself. Margiela’s shows always have an element of surprise to them, but this year his taste for suggestion over the obvious has creeped back onto the runway. Last year in his show Incognito (S/S 2008), Margiela’s models got their first taste of darkness as they had their eyes covered with opaque black bands (echoed on their bodies, creating a sexy sleek dismembered look). This year the idea of fashion as a commodity into which we only have a peeping-tom access is thrown back at us once again by the master of disguise (and undercover). Going back to the idea of the mannequin – interchangeable under the clothes – the models had their faces covered by nude, black or white nylon.

Following the dark mood of the superhero and gothic chic influences, the models looked like victims of a madman in a scary movie, with bodies bounded in Sellotape and nylon suits (with sometimes sequined jackets and wigs hanging from them like wings). At times you could almost expect the models to suddenly start running in a frenzy to escape the dark enclosed stage on which they were exposed. What is even more of a wonder is how they all managed to walk straight caught in these tight bondage-like clothes and robbed of proper eyesight.

At this stage it is impossible to not think of Rihanna’s latest video Disturbia. Especially when the pieces become more eccentric and red lips are painted on the nylon faces, increasing the bondage vibe. All this topped up with a white jewellery box clad model, twin dolls with long fiery wigs (sending back into my mind some gladly forgotten horror images from The Ring) and a huge birthday cake looking like a puffy skirt. The creepy doll show is a masterpiece only Margiela could piece together with a two decades experience in “disturbing fashion” – after all clothes can make you think if you can’t wear them.