Officer's Mark

After a summer of delicate hues and lushly printed skirts that would be lost in a flower field, the mood shifts from pastel-coloured romance to subtly aggressive seduction. Designers have unleashed onto the catwalks a jumble of army wear from every area and every country one can think of. But none of this controversial camouflage, khaki soldiers uniforms of the last decade. This season looks up to precisely fitted, sombre-coloured (black is the new black once again!) Officer styles – Napoleonian cuffs, gold-bordered Hussard inspired jackets or Russian Generals’ epaulettes. Dazzling, sculptural, softly seductive, even – think strong contrast between strict and loose, stiff collars and organza skirts, marine blue and gold-layered fawn. Ralf Lauren tells us the perfect balance to this autumn’s military precision craze is in keeping “allure” at all costs: there is no talk of tossing the sensual feminine touch that intoxicated us all over spring and summer like dried out meadow flowers. Frills and silk emerge from sharp blazers and accents of red and gold punctuate the trend. Temperly teams a fitted, immaculately white jacket with romantic skirts and high black boots to craft a princess with a fighting temper.

An eerie mini or flowing filmy skirt with a feminine fur-hat or a cloche, a sculpted, heavily decorated stiff uniform and soaring patent heels might be the new (somewhat confusing in its profusion of details!) take on the military: all about glamorous precision. Quite far from the various more or less subtle connotations military trends usually carry: it seems to be more about fantasy and dressing up (keeping the playground mood of this summer) than a sign of supporting “the fight for the greater good” as during WWI and WWII, or a vigorous and visual protest against ongoing conflicts in the Middle East. The Noughties have shown the concerns and protests raging against war (with Iraq especially) by raiding the catwalks and high-street shops with berets, trench coats, cinch belts, combat gear and camouflage especially favoured by houses like Balenciaga or Versace.

However this year, the military rage has gone softer and golden. Is there a truce between political conflicts and fashion, or have the designers picked upon the military style’s other undertones? Military chic and opulence connotes a world of inequalities and violence in which we are the Generals – outside, yet concerned with the conflict – like Alexander Mc Queen’s shiny, glamorous yet serious take on the trend with tight leggings the colour of the outfit’s insignias and brass buttons. The balance of civilian and officer, male and female (with gender bending and sensuality notes) unleashes a “je ne sais quoi” of seduction and innovation: military clothes are also a subtext to women’s empowerment.

Autumn should be warned, women are about to stir the ranks!